Puerto Montt, 19-20 Jan Navimag MV Evangelistas 4D3N cruise, Chile 20-23 Jan 2012

The journey from Bariloche to Puerto Montt was interesting because we could see the damage caused by Volcano Cordon Caulle. The entire Andes mountain range between Argentina and Chile was covered by ashes, trees are suffocating and lakes are no longer blue, in fact it looks like snow storm, it was unfortunate for the Argentinean as the wind always blow from the west to the east so the ashes always flow to the Argentinean side. The smoke from the Volcano Cordon Caulle can be seen from the bus, it looks like an explosion of an atomic boom!

I only spent one night in Puerto Montt, my host was really nice this time, so far Chilean CS has never failed me! There are 3 other couchsurfers surfing with him at the same time I was there. A couple from France who travel with their bicycle in South America and another lady from Argentina. That night we had Asian dinner at home, Cristophe the French CS cook Thai curry and I cook the rice. My host bought few bottles of wine and we had a great meal. I wish I could have spent more time here as my host seems to be an interesting person, he does all kind of outdoor activities like ice climbing, rock climbing, cycling, canoying, rafting and so on. But I have a boat to catch the next day. I will be boarding Navimag MV Evangelistas on a 4D3N cruise from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. I hope to see a lot of glacier and see some whales if I am lucky.

Navimag MV Evangelistas

The Navimag MV Evangelistas is a half cargo and half passenger ship. I couldn’t get a space in the cheapest dorm so I have booked myself in a quad share room. We boarded the ship at noon but we only set sail at 4:30pm. I shared a room with 2 French and a Swiss. There are 2 bunk bed and 2 cabinet at both side, it is very tight, we have to get into our bed if all 4 of us are inside. The ship has 5 levels, bottom 2 levels are for the cargo and the access prohibited. My rooms are at the 3rd level where most of the rooms are, at the 4th level there is the dining area, the bridge and more rooms. At the 5th level, there is a bar and a helicopter pit. There are about 300 passengers on board but the ship is large enough to scattered everyone around. During the 4 days on board, 3 meals are included per day and we had documentary session and talks about glacier, flora and fauna.

The first two days of the cruise, we saw many Minky whales. A few of them were as close as 10m from the ship. I managed to get some good shots and video out of it. We also saw dolphins and sea lions swimming along the ship. We were supposed to visit the 2nd largest Glacier in the world, Pia Glacier but due to some unforeseen weather, winds, waves and currents. The captain announced that we can’t make it to the Pia Glacier instead he will bring us to another more accessible Glacier called Iceberg Glacier. To me, it doesn’t make any difference as it will be my first Glacier, I have no mean of comparison. It looks damn big and impressive to me as the ship approached the glacier as near as 300m away from it. It took my breath away. I was told the glaciers here are the only one in the world that are advancing where else the others are reclining.

Iceberg Glacier

Puerto Eden

On the 3rd day, the scenery gets more interesting as the ship sail pass the Torres del Paine National Park, we can see lots of ice capped peak and hanging glacier. We stopped by a little village called Puerto Eden, as the ship needs to unload some cargo, we get to visit the village. We have to put on the orange life jacket the whole time, we all looks so stupid with it. The village only has population of over 200, all of us on board swam the little village. I bet the satellite will be able to spot a sudden invasion of orange dots at this little island. It is really pretty and peaceful here, no cars or road and inaccessible. Only Navimag pass by once a week and a weekly transport boat take local fish and shellfish product to the market. The village is known for being the home for the last Kaweshkar people. We had an hour stroll on the wooden boardwalk around the village and hop back to the ship.

On the last day, it started to get bored. We lost the excitement of watching whales and seeing the mountain range. It was cloudy, drizzling and cold. We were all waiting to get to Puerto Natales. We were 6 hours late by initial schedule. Finally we arrived around 7pm. It has been my first cruise and most probably be my last. I prefer to do something more active then just sit on the boat for 4 days and do nothing. But I did met some great friends whom I traveled together for the next few weeks. :-)


Accommodations
Couchsurfing
Cruising


Transportations
MV Evangelistas 


Recreations
4D3N Cruise on Navimag from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales - US$480

Bariloche, Argentina 16-19 Jan 2012

Bariloche is well known for its gorgeous settings along Lake Nahuel Huapi with peaks of Cerros Catedral, López, Nireco and Shaihuenque but when I arrived, it was completely dusty and hazy with visibility bad enough that I can’t see what is across the lake. The continuous eruption from Volcano Cordon Caulle from Chile has caused severe air pollution to this town.

My host picks me up from the terminal, he lives 7km from town in an area surrounded by forest. His dog Bufi is adorable, very friendly and charming. The weather for the next 2 days was better, the sky was clear because the wind was not blowing to Bariloche direction. In the morning, we walked to the lake side near his house with Bufi, the water in the lake was cold but it didn’t bother Bufi as he run in and out of the water to collect the stick we threw. 

In the evening, we made asado in his huge courtyard. It was a nice and relaxing day spent with my host. At night, while I was preparing to go to sleep, he was in his hammock in the house and he asked me to go into his hammock with him. Well, first of all the hammock is for one person, second of all, I know where this will lead to so I refuse his proposal and went to my bed.

The third day in the morning, I was about to make pancake for breakfast, he told me that he is going to town in 10 minutes, I thought that’s weird why didn’t he tell me the night before. OK never mind, probably he has something to do last minute. I have to abandon my pancake and packed up in 10 minutes. The whole way to town he didn’t talk much, when I asked him is everything ok, he just said yes. He dropped me in the square and drove off. I was actually prepared for this because when he accepted my request, I actually found out that he has 3 negative references, one gal said that he jump into her bed and the other warned single gals not to couchsurf with him. Now I understand why. This guy is weird, he was nice with me the first two days and next he completely shut down and gave me his unhappy face. So what should I do now? I have one more night! Should I move to a hostel? I don’t have the key to the house and if I do that, it will be very rude. the I decided I will stay but will try to be careful and be prepared to leave the house at any time. The entire day I stayed in town but the problem bothers me. 

I visited the town, it was full of tourist and Chocolate shops. The massive church by the lake was quiet impressive. I could finally see the peaks surrounding the lake and I can imagine how beautiful it is during winter when all of the peaks are covered with snow. There weren’t much to do here in town unless I sign up with some excursion to the surrounding lakes. I didn’t want to spend the money to go for another touristy tour so I spent some time by the lake. By 5pm, I was ready to go back. Lucky I had a map with me and figured out how to take the bus as he didn’t explain to me clearly. I even buy my bus ticket for the next day just in case he doesn’t want to send me to the terminal.

When I arrived home, he was working on his house. I tried to be friendly and trying to find out if his bad mood is over. After a few Q&A...Nop! He is still not ok. So I went back into my room and do my own things. Around 7pm in the evening, he said he is going to town, so I had to go with him. He told me that there is a demonstration in town that he wants to join, it is protesting against miners whom pollute the water in the lake. We spent 2 hours in town.

By the night, he recovered a little and asked me what time is my bus tomorrow. I was leaving early at 8:30 in the morning. He said we will have to leave the house by 8am then. That means he will be sending me to the terminal. I really appreciate that. I do not know what to think now.

We said good bye, I was thankful that he hosted me for 3 nights, it also left me puzzle with his behavior. How do I leave a comment for him? I still hasn’t done it till today. :-(


Accommodations

Couchsurfing

Transportations

Bus from Bariloche to Puerto Montt– P13,000

Recreations

NA