Everest Base Camp 5364m before 50

Welcome to Kathmandu

Every decade of my life journey I push myself to do something dramatic and challenging, before I turn 40 I quit my job and went travel round the world, hike Annapurna Base Camp and Langtang in Nepal. This time 10 years later, I decided to concur Everest Base Camp. Even though is not higher then Mt. Kilimanjaro that I concurred in 2015 but it's one of the next in my list to achieve.

Winnie and I has decided to do it this year, we plan it in Sept during my birthday, I knew I had to train, as always I got busy with many things and I started my training late only in Jun, 3 months is really not enough added onto additional unplan injuries, but I did my very best to be fit for this trip.

We got ourselves booked on Vistara airline because it is half the price compare to Singapore airline. It required us to transit in Delhi, which is fine. I also got in touch with my guide from 10 years ago who is currently running his own Trekking Agency now, he booked us on the local flight to Lukla, guide, porter and Kathmandu hotel. Everything is taken care of. We just need to get there. :-)

We got to Kathmandu with no issue, we stayed one night and leave the next day to Lukla, as we have heard many stories about the weather dependent flights, we wanted to be there as early as possible.

EBC Hike starts 18 Sept 2022

Day 1 - We woke up very early to catch the 7:30am flight to Lukla. The domestic airport is simply a hall with a line of counters, we queue with our bags but they don't have much of the q system here, our guide "Bhanu" just go with everyone to the front to get us the boarding pass. Finally they weight our bags and we were clear to check in. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2800m) was delayed for an hour, apparently this company has 2 planes and one was down, so the only one working is doing a shuttle trip between Lukla and Kathmandu.

At 8:30am our turn has finally arrived. Everyone was rush onto a bus, the bus drove to the cargo area to pick up our luggage then head to the runway, we could see our plane just landed and moving towards to parking. The mini plane has only 12 seaters 6 row of seats left and right. Our check in luggage allowance is 10kg and hand carry is 5kg. We took the seat on the left side so we can have a better view of the Himalayan mountains. The flight journey is just 30mins, when we were getting closer to Lukla, the plane was flying very close to the steep mountain, felt like I could touch it. I saw the sight of the short runway via the cockpit window, the landing was fast and short, the runway is designed to be slopping upward so it will help with slowing down the landing. We were lucky with good weather, as the day before only 2 flights managed to flew in. This is the world most dangerous airport with only a short runway. There were several plane crashes in the pass due to bad weather, the safety regulations at Lukla airport were enhanced and landing in bad weather is restricted.

Lukla Airport

Once arrived, we picked up our porter. A young man at his 20s, his name is Luxman. He will carry our 20kg duffle bag. We had our breakfast and off we go hiking to Phakding (2652m), it was an easy down hill track passing plenty of waterfall and hanging bridges. There were many porters transporting food and necessities to the higher villages, they carry a very heavy basket with a thick fabric loop over their head. Its a really tough job. Some heavier stuff like gas cylinder and gasoline are transported using ponies.

We took around 2hrs to get to Phakding (2652m). We stayed at Budha Lodge, the lodges here are built with stones, bricks and wood, very basic, insulation is not existence here, one layer of glass window and no heating in the building, the only place that is heated is the dining area where they would have a self contain fire place installed in the center of the dining room with a chimney to the roof top. They will burn some wood or cow dunk at night. In the room we will either use the thick blanket provided or a good down sleeping bag. As we were first and only guest in the guesthouse we get to pick the best room, top floor mountain view. It is still consider low season now, things will start to pick up in Oct.

Dal Bhat

For this trip, our breakfast, lunch and dinner is included. One main course and one drink, anything extra we have to pay for it. We learnt about the local dish called Dal Bhat, is like a mix rice, one rice, one veg, one dal soup or with a meat option. Free top up. :) very filling here the wifi is chargeable 200rph per person, unlimited use.

Day 2 - From Phakding (2652m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m)
We started early at 8am, it was an easy hike along the river, we saw plenty of waterfall and cross a few hanging bridge. Not our favorite as we are scared of height. We stop at Jorsalle for lunch and then continue with an easy trek till we see the Hillary Bridge. Hillary Bridge is the highest hanging bridge in Nepal, crossing it was scary, I couldn't look anywhere else but straight, hand holding my handphone trying to record everything around. Winnie walk forward in front of me but she froze midway, our guide had to hold her hand to walk her across. The wind picks up in the middle of the bridge too, almost lost my hat. After the bridge, it is uphill with steps all the way up to Namche Bazaar. Phew! I was so slow catching my breath and trying to maintain my heartbeat rate every step I take, Winnie has gone way ahead but she always maintain a distance where she can see me. We pass several check points too, all required a fees except the last one before Namche.

Namche Bazaar

Arriving in Namche, a tranquil little town full of guesthouse, shops and cafe. A place where villagers come to trade their produce on a weekend. We were here on Monday so we miss it. Our guesthouse is Moonlight, one of the highest one in the town Have to hike up pass the center and huff and puff our way to reach it. Today we hike for 4.5 hrs. Temperature drop when the cloud cover us, in the afternoon it started to drizzle which gets even colder. Luckily in our dining area, they have a stove which keep the room heated. We all gather in the dining room. This guesthouse has offered free wifi and free power charging to the guests. The dining area is also where we meet other hikers and trade story. We cross path with some groups and some independent hikers.

Day 3 - Namche Bazaar (3440m)
We stayed 2 nights here to acclimatize, I already had headache yesterday, didn't sleep well, in the morning I took another panadol and drank lots of water, it finally went away. We did an easy hike up to 3775m to Sanbuche, to view the amazing peaks on the Himalaya range. Ama Dablam (6856m) looks spectacular up close, far ahead is the top of the world the Mt. Everest emerge before the cloud for us it looks tiny but we will get closer to it!

We went back down to have a relaxing day today, we hike down to the town to Namche Bakery & Cafe, they made delicious cakes. Came back and decided to take a hot shower for $6. Its well worth it! this night we met a facebook friend of mine who was also on the EBC trek but he is one day behind us and coincidently he checked into the same guesthouse too. We had a great night chatting and sharing stories.

Day 4 - Namche to Tengboche (3870m)
We had an early start today, woke up several times at night, and another headache, had breakfast and took another panadol. Luckily the headache went away, the starting 2 hours was really easy, walking on almost flat path in the valley, where we can see the giant Ama Dablam close up, far away was Loche and Nupche, Everest remain covered with cloud. We arrived at the river point at 10am, a bit too early for lunch, but our guide said we had to have our lunch here as after the river it will be a tough up hill to Tengboche. So we order some food to get more energy for the uphill.

The uphill was tough but less tougher then the steps to Namche, coz it is more uphill slope then steps. I kept my pace and catching my breath slowly. Winnie was talking away she is so ready for this trip, I think I get my training on the go here . We arrived at 1pm and checked in to Tashi Deleck Lodge, just opposite is the Tengboche Monastery.

Our room has the best view again (benefit of arriving early) facing the valley where Everest is, we hope tomorrow morning we will see it now its all covered up by cloud. At 3pm we could join the monk in the monastery during their chanting session. The lodge also has a bakery and cafe, we could enjoy a cup of hot chocolate. Dinner in the heated dining area was good, food and service were very good, prices went up too. The higher we go the more expensive it is. As we get to know our guide Bhanu, he is very shy person and doesn't speak much, only when we ask he will speak. He always take our orders and serve us our meals. We the hikers always eat first and the guide will eat later when we are done. They stay with us in the same lodge, but the porter stays in porter house. In some places, the porter also stay in the same lodge as us. According to Bhanu during peak seasons, sometime there are no rooms for them and they had to sleep in the dining area.

Day 5 - Tengboche (3870m) to Dingboche (4360m)
Awaken with a bad headache in the middle of the night, trying to swallow down 1 more little of water, trying to get more sleep, nothing is working, finally I took another panadol. Waited and unconsciously fell asleep. Finally the headache went away.

At 5am, the sun rise, we look out at the giant snow mountain in front of us totally unblock, stunning and breath taking. When the sun is up, it slowly warms up the cold temperature. We had our breakfast, looking out at the monastery. Beautiful morning sun shine on it.

We left ard 8:30am so we would not have too much time to kill in the afternoon. We were asked not to sleep in the afternoon so its quiet boring if we arrive early. The starts of the hike was down hill to a hanging bridge, then it was gentle up and down hill to Somare where we had lunch. There were 2 group of yaks with luggage passing us, I was very slow, actually following the speed of the yaks was fine except when we go uphill. I felt like I've no energy to walk.

Lunch was good, I had Korean noodles, spicy and hot. The next stretch was flat and down hill to a river, we cross the river that is coming down from Everest, then its up hill and gentle slope, I was having tough time breathing and getting enough oxygen, I felt my chest and rip compression, I slow down and stop every time I felt that. The headache was back, we arrived finally at Dingboche after 5 hrs, our lodge is way up at the top again I was exhausted.

At 4360m fighting for giant headache felt horrible, its like someone hit your head with a baseball bat. I took another panadol to get rid of the headache. The staff asked me to take garlic soup, they said is the best remedy. I took it, tasted so garlicky but I drank it all. Seriously felt better after that, my head is lighter and I could function. I went to sleep early after dinner.

Day 6 - Today is acclimatization day at Dingboche, we just hike up the hill nearby, I only managed 3 flags only 300m elevation took me some time. we rest the rest of the day.
Everything happen last 2 days!

Day 7 - From Dingboche (4360m) we head to Lobuche (4940m) for a long stretch we were hiking on a flat plateau, we could only see the river below and Periche, a little town for stay over on the way back. We saw many groups of hikers on the way to EBC. We finally decent to cross a river, very rocky path down and up to reach Thukla (4620m), here we all stop over for lunch. It is also a guesthouse if one need to stay over.

After lunch, it was a killer 200m uphill. We reach the Thukla pass at 4830m where there were a lot of tombstones remembering people who has died scaling the mountains. After the pass we see the end of the Khumbu Glacier, now only left with rough rocks. We continue to ascent, I wasn't feeling well at all, walking extremely slowly, our porter had came back and meet us half way, he took my bag, I was very thankful and at that point I was walking like a zombie . We reached Lobuche finally. Tonight I took the Diamox pill after feeling very heavy headed. The night was horrible, I couldn't sleep at all, a giant headache hit me again, so I took another panadol. That helps to clear it for the morning hike. Its the most important day of our trip as we will be reaching EBC.

Luboche

Day 8 - Luboche to Gorak Shek (5170m) then to EBC (5364m) back to GS
From Luboche we woke with a nice weather, we were surrounded by mountains and the Khumbu glazier. We hike along the Khumbu Glazier which already retreated, the trek is very rocky, oxygen was much thinner at this altitude, just a small up slope or steps over rocks will take a toll. The stretch towards GS was tough we arrived and check in.

Gorak Shek

Last leg

Both of us decided to take away our lunch to eat at the EBC. We put on more layers as it was very cold! Our final leg now is to head to Everest Base Camp, I took another Diamox because I wasn't feeling well, its the final destination! We walk along the ridge of the Khumbu Glazier, the cloud has covered the sky, temperature drop further, my focus was just taking another step onwards. It started to snow! At the end of the path we had to scramble over huge rocks to get to the basecamp and we finally arrived.

The only thing that tell you its the EBC was the huge rock written with the name and altitude. Our guide said that the EBC changed several time. We could see now the 1st camp of the Everest expedition was about 200m away. We could also see the glazier now retreated all the way here. Everything else was covered with cloud. We took a zillion photos and had our lunch. I took just few bites and gave the rest to the 2 dogs who were hungry for food. We made it! That's my milestone towards my 50's birthday!

Day 9 - Gorak Shek to Pangboche (3985m)
This morning Winnie went for a hike up Kalapatthar for the view of all the peaks, the weather was clear at 4:30am, our guide came knock on the door, she got ready and left. I skip this as I don't think I could do it. An hour later, I woke again and saw the view outside, immediately I put on a few layers and went out. The huge mountains and peaks surrounding us, amazing view just from outside the guesthouse, but we cant see the Everest from the here, I cant imagine from the top of Kalapatthar. Winnie came back with amazing Video of the peaks and also Everest peak. We had our breakfast and got ready for our long day.

Today we hike down towards Thukla, passing Lobuche and then from there we went on a different way we came from. We hike further down to the river towards Periche. Periche is where we could see from the top of the plateau. As the small village is in the valley, it is very windy and cold. Our guide has decided that we will move on to Pangboche.
That day we hike 5h40mins. Long and tiring. We arrived at a quiet guesthouse, only us and no other hikers.

Hillary Bridge

Day 10 - Pangboche to Monjo (2835m)

Today its my Birthday, feeling fresh and energized one year wiser and one big milestone accomplished. From our room, we could still see some peaks in the early morning. We always get amazing view in the morning through our windows. There are more farming at this altitude. They farm potatoes, beans, carrot, salad, cabbage and cauliflowers. After breakfast, we slowly retrace our way back to Namche, but first we have to hike up to Tengboche where the monastery is, passing the rhododendron forest. The weather is not like when we came, it was cover with fog and cloud today. After Tengboche, we went down hill. Since there isn't much to see, we just focus on moving. We stop somewhere for lunch before Namche. Arriving at Namche we took the bypass route around it. From here it was then all the way steep down hill till our knees wobber. We reached the highest hanging bridge in Nepal and this time we walk across with more confident.

After 6 hrs we finally arrived at Monjo. It is interesting to stop over at different places even tho we took the same route. Monjo is a very small village with a monastery on top of a hill. Our guesthouse is very pretty, they grow a lot of flowers in the garden and our room is the corner unit that has a view of the monastery. Tonight we decided to take our first hot shower after 6 days. Wow! It was the best shower ever!

Day 11 - Monjo to Lukla (2800m)
From Monjo to Lukla its our last leg, we started late at 8am as it was our last hiking day. Lots of waterfall and a few bridge crossing, at the lower altitude we see more pony used for transport. We expected more down hill but when getting close to Lukla we still have quiet a bit of uphill to do. Today we hike for almost 6hrs to reach Lukla. That's the end!

Day 12 - Lukla to Kathmandu
Flight in and out of Lukla is never 100% confirmed due to the weather and danger conditions. This morning when we walk to the airport at 6am, we dont see the end of the runway, it was cover by cloud. The airport is empty, only a hand full of people around. Out flight is 6:40am. We wait and wait...at 7am we see the sky had a slight opening, suddenly people are rushing now to the airport, the airport came alive, they said if we can see the mountain at the end of the runway, they will allow flight to land. The day before they was no flight and this day will be our lucky day. At 8am the 1st flight landed follow with 2nd 3rd and 4th. Ours was the 5th one. Everyone was cheering in the airport .


We bid farewell to our guide and porter heavy heartedly, it was amazing moment we spent together over the last 12 days. We finally left around 9am and landed in Kathmandu 9:30am.